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Athens

Rugged inlets and sandy bays make up the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. So it was that at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to head to relax bones still aching for a last splash of summer sun. For Athens offers something that other European cities cannot: a shoreline of more than 40 miles dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.

During the off-season, the coasts of Attica still have a strong appeal, as I discovered when taking a dip into a fading sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in marine blue waters ready to turn golden as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's public or private beaches does not disappoint.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a eatery whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the spectacular view of the inlet it sits on. In a tribute to bygone eras, the appetizers is served on large wooden trays.

The city is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: rising terrain within view of the Acropolis that make it a rich resource for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – bearers of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.

In my view, this ancient capital is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you reach the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the prize is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to be in the center, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the north side of the Acropolis from about £120 B&B. In the vicinity, a popular restaurant is a preferred eatery with locals and serves the most succulent lamb chops. With views of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and ideal for mild fall nights – for a special experience head to a top restaurant or the award-winning fine dining establishment.

The Sicilian Capital

Think Neapolitan pizza is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen rectangle of bread topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and topped with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Savory, filling and cozy, it’s available in bakeries, stands and carts throughout the town (a central street in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve pieces of sfincione, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we eat as we stroll into town along tight Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As hot spells swept Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily reached 104F in the shade. At the end of July one hot spot reached an unprecedented 158F at ground level.

We stroll the city and enjoy how its long history is written in its architecture.

Now, as temperatures creep to 75F by the afternoon, we can explore the metropolis and appreciate how its long history is visible in its roads. Passing historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century San Cataldo Church; Piazza Pretoria, with its 16th-century fountain, installed under colonial times; and the grand church, built on the site of a ninth-century Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the origins of which also stretch back over 1,000 years. Some decry its touristification, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Feeling brave, we stop for a classic pani câ meusa, which is better than expected, with its mildly sugary “filling” set off by grated cheese. The stallholder is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re happy to return to quieter La Kalsa, the historic district to the eastern part, which was damaged in the World War II and declined for years before being revitalized this era. a boutique hotel (sea-view rooms from $175 with breakfast) is a small B&B with many attractions close by. Nearby is a historic palace, a 17th-century grand building restored and relaunched in 2021 to display the an art collection, which includes works by contemporary artists and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are singing their hearts out as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the time will change and winter will begin. We relish a final days in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and swimming areas on the branches of the river, I’m now seeking a new hue. This city is a metropolis of green spaces and well-kept lawns, grassy areas and forest zones, which exchange their green canopy for a rusty amber and yellowish tint the locals call golden autumn.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and cobblestones of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gilt isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into corridors of towering bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that go to the bright building.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the chestnut trees of the main avenue, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the vintage-designed a trendy hotel (doubles from $85 B&B) is a ideally located retreat.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting parks and building community spirit), autumn brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best eaten in a traditional Beisl such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

The city is a city of green areas and gardens that change their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow.

Little known, Vienna is the only continental city to grow wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen designated urban paths, known as walking routes. Route one leads you through the wine country of Nussdorf. Settle in a slope Heuriger such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a zesty grüner veltliner with a Brettljause (a platter of cold cuts and cheese), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to wander among the city's grand buildings, galleries and old homes – a {cultural crop|