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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.